Eau des Sens (Diptyque, 2016) was created by perfumer Olivier Pescheux with the focus on a fairly known flower throughout the world: orange blossom. The goal, of course, is to highlight its beauty. But, it is also important to make the fragrance accessible with considerations given to its general appeal. For example, some may prefer the carnal sensuality of the flower, while others look for the comfort that it provides in scenting talcum powder. Eau des Sens takes these well into consideration and straddles nicely between the two sides. Eau des Sens is a balanced idea of shared fragrances from its character right down to its longevity.
Eau des Sens opens with a bright theme of the bitter orange tree. The combination of bigarade oil, petitgrain oil, and neroli oil – all from the bitter orange tree – introduces the theme nicely. Its citrusy sparkle, green woody nuance, and spicy floral note are there to behold. And, perhaps, juniper berries lend their bitter pine accent to give the impression of woods and stems.
The sensual central character of Eau des Sens emerges with the floral opulence of its orange blossom. The accent here is luminous, and not so much the narcotic creaminess that often typifies orange blossoms. But, at times, I find this orange blossom heart slightly ‘high-pitched’. Here, the woods of patchouli also contrast nicely with the heady orange blossoms and keeps the composition wearable.
It finishes on a floral musky note that marries well with the central orange blossom character. It also projects its orange blossom very well. Often, I kept catching whiffs off Eau des Sens, only to find out that the sources of that floral power were the blotter or my scarf a few metres away. More importantly, the dry down cleverly avoids coming close to the soapy musks of many orange blossom toiletries.
Eau des Sens is a balanced, well-crafted orange blossom theme with longevity to boost. Whilst it may not possess the ultimatum of Fleur d’Oranger (Serge Lutens, 2003), the multifaceted richness of Séville à l’Aube (L’Artisan Parfumeur, 2012), or the nectarous harvests of Fleur d’Oranger (L’Artisan Parfumeur, 2005 & 2007), Eau des Sens offers accessibility and fulfils its promises. It explores the fairly familiar theme of orange blossom on both sides, balancing between sultry seduction and reassuring comfort.