I have few vetiver perfumes that I love and admire. These are Vétiver (Guerlain, 1959), which is an all-time classic, and Encre Noire (Lalique, 2006), which I have come to think of as a modern classic. But, they are not the vetiver that I mostly reach for. That honour goes to Sycomore (Chanel, 2007).
Sycomore is likely named after Sycamore (Chanel, 1930), an aldehydic floral created by perfumer Ernest Beaux. However, Sycomore was composed by perfumers Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake, and it features vetiver as the main woody note.
But, just as important are the layers of accents that shape the vetiver. From the bright green pines in the opening to the smoky and roasted notes, the vetiver is so skilfully embellished that the composition feels like an abstraction that blooms and glows on skin. I find its subtle character of green pines, smoky notes, and soft woods sublime. And it stays smoky and roasted for a long time
Sycomore is just as elegant as it is versatile. The vetiver is carefully chiselled, and nothing is overdone that would compromise its subtleties. Wearing it, I feel as though I dressed myself up, but remain comfortable. For this reason, it acquires a special place even amongst my favourite vetivers and wins hands down when it comes to the frequency of use.